Native American Jewelry
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History
Of Native American Jewelry Making
Handcrafted Native American jewelry made by the Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi
silversmiths in northern Arizona and New Mexico have evolved over the
years from the traditional turquoise based silver jewelry to the more
contemporary multi-colored stones and shells inlayed in silver.
This Southwestern style has been a unique product of the "First
People" ever since silverwork was introduced to the Navajo Indian
Atsidi Saani who learned about blacksmithing at Ft. Defiance, Arizona in
the 1850’s.
The Navajo Indians later introduced the art to the Zuni Indians
approximately 125 years ago. After returning to their lands in 1868
following their 4 year internment, the Navajos began to adapt and learn
how to silversmith among themselves. In the 1880- 1900, they gradually
obtained the tools and sources of silver from various traders and the Fred
Harvey Company. From these crude beginnings, the art slowly evolved
to the highly polished silver pieces representative of today’s market.
Today Indian crafts are recognized worldwide as a dynamic and exquisite
artform indigenous to the culture and heritage of the Indian tribes in the
Southwestern United States.
Each of the distinctive, Hopi, Zuni and Navajo silversmiths have a
style unique to themselves. The Hopi Indians produce an overlay style;
they cut a design out of a flat piece of silver, joining that piece to
another piece and then oxidizing the inside of the first piece in a base
relief pattern.
Traditional or the more familiar Navajo Indian pieces consists of
various types of blue or green turquoise set in an intricate handmade silver piece of artwork; squash blossom necklaces, concha belts and beaded
strand or stone fetish necklaces are popular examples of this traditional
style. On the other hand, traditional Zuni type emphasizes the use of
stones and shell held together within the sterling silver design. Zuni
artists are renowned for their channel inlay patterns of multi-colored
stones and shell meticulously crafted and united together in aesthic color
patterns.
The traditional turquoise used in Indian crafts comes in several
different shades of blue and green from several different sources. These
sources include Blue Verde turquoise from the Old Vega Mine in Nevada,
Lone Mountain turquoise from Tonopah, Nevada, Sleeping Beauty and Morenci
(sky blue color) turquoise from the copper mines in Arizona, Persian
turquoise from Iran (this is the standard by which other turquoise is
compared with), and the richly veined greenish Chinese turquoise from
China and Tibet.
The contemporary inlayed silver collections, popularized by the
"Santa Fe style" sold to the "jet set" and ski crowds
in the art galleries and shops in Santa Fe and Taos, originated from and
is established by the Navajo and Zuni Indian silversmiths from the Four
Corners region of New Mexico and Arizona. This contemporary inlayed
bracelets, earring and pendants consists of a pattern of different colored
stones or shells usually separated by a strip of silver bezel laid in handmade
pieces. Each individual stone or shell is painstakingly hand
cut, press fitted together, sanded level and then polished to form a
seamless mosaic of color. In addition to the different types of turquoise,
contemporary style inlayers use blue lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, purple
sugilite from South Africa, green malachite from African, black jet from
Utah, pink, red and orange coral from the Mediterranean, green snail shell
from the Philippines and various other seashells including mother of
pearl, spiny oyster, pink shell, white shell, melon shell, and red abalone
from the Gulf of Mexico and Pacific Ocean. Contemporary arts reflect the
efforts of the Indian silversmith/lapidarian to express an artistic
aspiration of his culture and heritage to the world in terms of its
beauty, richness, meticulous workmanship and charm.
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